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A chisel plane can do things impossible for normal planes. Lacking support in front of the blade, it works more like a paring chisel with very precise depth control.
A chisel plane can do things impossible for normal planes. Lacking support in front of the blade, it works more like a paring chisel with very precise depth control. It is a wonderful clean-up tool for removing dry glue, flush-trimming plugs or joints, smoothing rabbets and reaching into right-angle corners.
The Lie-Nielsen chisel plane is a handy half-size version of the original Stanley No. 97, with bronze body and cap, cherry knob and a stainless steel adjuster for the hefty blade.
Facts:
Length 6-1/2"
Width 1-3/4"
Blade 1-3/4" wide and 3/16" thick, A2 tool steel
Weight 2.35 lb
Most Lie-Nielsen plane blades, chisels and mortise chisels are made of A2 tool steel. The steel is cryogenically treated, hardened to 60–62 HRC and double tempered, and takes and holds a very fine edge for a long time.
The blades are surface ground on the top, back and edge, so they quickly take a mirror finish. Some tools are available in O1 carbon steel, which gets very sharp and is easy to sharpen. The product name then says O1.
Which plane to start with depends on what you will do, but for most people a smoothing plane (No. 4) or a jack plane (No. 5) is a good first choice. The smoothing plane gives smooth surfaces, and the jack plane is a versatile plane for both rough work and truing edges.
A block plane is a good addition for end grain and chamfers. The guide explains how the hand plane is built and which types exist.
Planes of cast iron and steel rust easily, especially in unheated workshops and from moisture on your hands. Wipe the plane after use and protect bare surfaces with a thin layer of wax or oil that will not mark the wood.
Store your planes dry, ideally in a plane sock or box. If rust has already formed, the guide shows how to clean and protect them.
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